CHIYABA || A Quiet Chai Ritual Beneath the Tracks of Nakameguro, Tokyo

CHIYABA || A Quiet Chai Ritual Beneath the Tracks of Nakameguro, Tokyo

This time in Tokyo, I wasn’t chasing neon or novelty; I was chasing stillness, and it led me beneath the train tracks of Nakameguro.

Only five stops from Shinjuku Station on the Fukutoshin Line, Nakameguro feels worlds away from the city’s luminous core. The neighbourhood moves at a gentler tempo, its tree-lined streets revealing independent cafés, thoughtful eateries, and quiet moments that reward unhurried wandering.

As I stepped out of the station and walked deeper into the area, I felt the familiar twinge of travel regret; the kind that comes from knowing you won’t have time to try everything that catches your eye. But I had one destination in mind: Chiyaba, a chai tea bar discreetly tucked beneath the elevated railway.

Chiyaba’s exterior blends into Nakameguro’s understated streetscape, revealing little at first glance.

Stepping inside, the atmosphere announces itself softly. The scent of warming spices lingers in the air—cardamom, cloves, cinnamon—mingling with the low rumble of trains passing overhead. The space is intimate and composed, dressed in dark wood, woven rugs, and shelves lined with carefully arranged bottles and tins. This is not a café designed for speed or spectacle; it is a place calibrated for pause.

Dark woods, woven textures, and dimly lit corners create a calm refuge beneath Nakameguro’s railway lines.

Chiyaba’s approach to chai is rooted in intention and craftsmanship. Their chai concentrates are brewed in small batches using whole spices and tea leaves sourced with care, favouring transparency and quality over shortcuts. Rather than masking flavours with excessive sweetness, their blends highlight balance; each spice present but restrained, allowing the tea to remain the anchor. The result is a chai that feels both comforting and precise.

I ordered their classic chai, served silky and gently spiced, alongside a sweet treat from the counter. The pastries here lean noticeably denser than the airy confections one might expect: rich, grounded, and clearly designed with chai in mind. They invite dipping, lingering, and slow enjoyment rather than quick indulgence. It’s a subtle but thoughtful pairing that reinforces Chiyaba’s philosophy: nothing here is rushed, and nothing is accidental.

Above: Spice-forward treats are designed to be paired slowly with chai, encouraging pause rather than haste. Below: Chai gently simmers on the stovetop, releasing layered aromas of cardamom, clove, and tea.

My plan was simple. I settled into a quiet corner with my book, letting the outside world dissolve. Every few minutes, a train would pass overhead, its sound folding seamlessly into the background like white noise. Instead of distraction, it became rhythm. The chai warmed my hands as much as it did my body; exactly what I needed on a chilly Tokyo morning.

Beyond the tea bar experience, Chiyaba also functions as a place of continuity. Their shelves are lined with bottled chai base, beautifully packaged and intended to travel beyond the café walls. Before leaving, I picked up a bottle, imagining myself recreating this ritual back home in Vancouver, even if the setting would be different.

Shelves lined with Chiyaba’s chai base and tea blends reflect the brand’s emphasis on craft and continuity.

Stepping back outside, the morning air felt sharp and clean, my breath briefly visible against the pale light. Moments like this remind me why slowing down while travelling matters. Not every journey needs to be filled with landmarks and lists. Sometimes, what we need most is a nurturing start to the day, a space that invites reflection, quiet solitude, and warmth.

Chiyaba offered exactly that. If Tokyo is on your travel itinerary for 2026, this is a place worth seeking out. Not for spectacle, but for the rare luxury of stillness.

Nakemeguro offers a quiet retreat for those seeking a day of solitude from Tokyo’s vibrant core.

VISIT

Chiyaba

Monday Closed

Tuesday 11 a.m.–8 p.m.

Wednesday 11 a.m.–8 p.m.

Thursday 11 a.m.–8 p.m.

Friday 11 a.m.–8 p.m.

Saturday 10 a.m.–8 p.m.

Sunday 10 a.m.–8 p.m.

+81 3-6388-5249

2 Chome-45-12 Kamimeguro, Meguro City, Tokyo 153-0051, Japan

Photography by Florence Leung